Building with the Kanger Subtank Mini RBA Plus.
Things you will need:
- Kanger Subtank Mini Plus
- Your mod/device
- Wire (either Kanthal or Nickel)
- Organic Japanese Cotton
- Multimeter/ ohm reader
- Mini Phillips head screw driver
- Coil jig or screw driver
- Wire cutters
- paper towel
Unscrew the top cap of the Kanger Subtank Mini Plus build deck.
Step the top cap off to the side in a safe place so you don't lose it.
Using the mini Phillips head screw driver loosen the screw on the side of the coil head. (Do not remove the screw just loosen it enough to be able to slide the tube off the build deck.)
You should now have this. Set the top cap and tube off to the side as you don't need them till later on.
Loosen the 2 Phillips head screws, one on the positive post and one on the negative post. You should not need to remove them unless you are doing an advanced coil build that uses multiple wires or are using a very thick gauge wire.
When planning the build of your coil make sure to follow Ohms Law and understand the limitation of your battery. Never use a coil/power setting that draws more amps than what your battery can deliver. Doing so can be very dangerous. Please be sure to read and understand this article before you build any coil.
Build your coil. Using the coil jig or a mini screw driver build your coil with the number of wraps you are wanting. There are a lot of of apps out there that can help you figure out how many wraps you should do to get a certain ohms with the gauge of wire you are using.
Now is a good time to screw the build deck onto the Subtank's base plate. In addition you can screw the base plate onto a building stand, onto a device with the battery removed or turned off/locked, or your ohm reader turned off.
Place one tail of the coil under the head of the screw on one of the posts. Tighten it down slightly. (do not tighten it down all the way as you may need to do minor adjustments.)
Now place the other coil tail under the head of the screw on the opposite post. Tighten the screw down.
Make any minor adjustments to center the coil between the two posts. It does not need to be prefect, we will take care of that in the next step.
Now tighten down both posts so they are tight.
Insert your screw driver or the rod from your coil jig into the center of your coil. Now you will will need to adjust your coil so it is centered and not touching the base plate.
Remove your screw driver or jig rod.
It should look like this when you are done.
Using your wire cutters, trim the tails of the coil as close to the posts as possible. If you cut the tails too long they could make contact with the chamber tube and cause a short. If you have any tail still sticking out and just can't get cut off with your wire cutters, use the flat side of the cutters to bend the tail over against the post.
It should look like this now.
Now screw the base plate with the build deck on your ohm reader and check to make sure it is the ohms that you wanted. If not rebuild your coil and repeat the steps above. If it reads what you wanted or very near to it, continue on to the next step.
Screw your Base plate with the build deck onto your mod/device. Turn it on and fire it for a few seconds to heat up the coil. Check to make sure the coil is glowing evenly. If you are doing a micro coil with no spacing between wraps once the coil is glowing release the fire button and using your ceramic tweezers gently squeeze the coil and hold for a few seconds till it cools down so it will hold that tight shape.
Pulse the fire button a few time to check the coil is glowing evenly still. If your mod has an ohm reader on it check the ohms and make sure they are still in range of what you wanted, if not check it with your ohm reader or multi-meter.
If all is in working order please continue on to the next step.
Remove your base plate and build deck from your mod and place it back on the build stand or ohm reader, or turn off/lock your device so you don't accidentally fire it. Firing the coil in the next steps can ruin your build or cause harm to yourself.
Cutting your Japanese Cotton.
You will want to cut your cotton in the same direction as the fibers in the pad. Do not cut across the fibers always cut with the fibers.
Cut a piece of cotton about twice as wide as the coil and about 1" to 1 1/2" in length.
You should end up with something looking about like this.
Now place one end of the cotton between your fore finger and your thumb and roll the cotton. You are trying to make the cotton into a point at one end so you can slide it into the center of the coil.
Once you have it rolled to a point insert the pointed end into the coil and slide it through. Pull the wick through till the coil is in the middle of the wick.
You should end up with something like the above photo.
Using your screw driver or finger nail try to re-fluff the end of the wick that you had rolled to a point. You will want something like the above photo.
Take both ends of the wick and point them upward. While holding them up, slide the chamber tube down over the wick and seat it on the build deck with the slot in the side of the tube over the side screw.
You should end up with the above picture. Your cotton should be sticking up over the top.
Tighten the side screw on the chamber tube. Make sure it is tight but not too tight.
Trim the wick leave a small amount (about and 1/8" to 1/4") of wick stick out above the top of the chamber.
Using the end of your screw driver or jig rod gently push the ends of the wick down into the chamber. There are chambers on either side of the coil. The chambers line up with the holes on the side of the chamber tube.
You should end up with something like the image above.
Screw on the top cap of the coil head.
You are now ready to prime your coil. Follow the steps in this article to prime and fill your Kanger Subtank Mini.
You are now ready to use and enjoy your Kanger Subtank Mini with the RBA Plus coil head.